Luciano by Gino D’Acampo

Celebrity chef Gino D’Acampo’s first venture outside the UK occupies Level 5 of the ME Malta hotel, within the Mercury tower in the heart of St Julian’s. Inside, an underwater theme takes hold: watercolour murals of swaying seaweed in aqua and coral wrap the curved walls, while oversized woven pendants cast a warm, dappled glow. Pale limed-wood armchairs with cane backs, navy leather banquettes and ikat cushions lend a breezy coastal feel, softened by floor-length linen drapes and leafy potted plants. The mood is refined yet relaxed, and Gino’s regular visits are always celebrated with special events, enlivened by his larger-than-life personality. 

The cuisine is classic Italian, drawing on dishes from across the country’s regions and favourites from D’Acampo’s books and television programmes, with Maltese produce such as Gozo olive oil and honey, local capers and day-boat fish woven throughout. Sharing is encouraged: the Antipasti alla Luciano platter of cured meats, cheeses and marinated vegetables opens proceedings, while spaghetti alla chitarra with black truffle is served family-style for two. Other highlights include linguine vongole and tagliatelle with half a lobster tail. Mains include pan-roasted octopus with ‘nduja, veal Milanese and an 800g tagliata of beef for two or three, while the world-class tiramisu makes a fitting finale.